By The Hack
It's been a busy time for the Hack, he has started several posts, some almost to completion, but alas. He also works for a living, and that comes first. But there are good stories to tell from Bloated Belly HQ—and will be told, about the first smoking episode with a hunk of brisket, a damn fine lunch at Sapor (arguably the best bargain in the Twin Cities), test kitchen episodes with mushroom varieties, and an evening out with Thom Pham, the chef and owner of Azia and Thanh Do restaurants and all-around superhero host. The Hack met Pham at his Azia restaurant last Monday with a group of area bloggers, and the evening was thoroughly sublime and the food outstanding.
Yes, outstanding. The Hack is not prone to effusive praise, so he doesn't throw that word around. What impresses the Hack the most about a select group of area chefs (and, thanks to his day job, he has a bank of empirical knowledge), is that the food is outstanding in their restaurants when they are not in the kitchen. Count Pham in that category, at least in Azia's case (the Hack has not dined yet at Than Do). Pham was amongst the crowd the entire evening, ate at the same table, and the Hack is quite certain Pham wouldn't have risked a kitchen mishap on the dapper duds he was wearing. Like any entrepreneur that's been around a while, Pham's had some bumps (some literal). There are those who react by imploding, and there are those that make hard decisions when neceessary, become stronger and thrive. Count Pham in that latter category. Details and photos from the evening at Azia to come.
Still, the Hack isn't too busy at the office to venture out for a good taco when he hears of one. Credit the Heavy Table for scooping the Hack in his own backyard with El Taco Riendo on Central Ave. (2416), a short drive from the Hack's office. The joint takes over the space of Chiapas, which the Hack thought decent. But El Taco Riendo is a fresh improvement. The owner, Miguel, who worked for about a decade with Oceanaire, and prior to that at other upscale establishments, clearly has his head on straight when it comes to service and presentation. Diners can walk up to the kitchen, see the goods, and place the order. And there are some damn good goods. All meats are cooked in house, varieties of chicken, beef and pork, familiar like barbacoa and carnitas, to traditional, like tongue and tripe. Sure, you can get salads and the like, but, come on. Pork prepped by knowing hands is a wonderful thing.
However, the Hack didn't sample tacos. Instead, he asked the chef what he would order. Enchiladas, he suggested. Three. The Hack was so engaged in the meal's construction that he neglected to write down exactly what he was getting. For the meat, it was beef, seared and diced; a pork, also diced rather than pulled, tender as all get out and richly (but mellow) spiced; and a spicy pulled chicken. If the Hack has anything to suggest, it would be to let those meats show off a bit more. And if the time is being spent to do them well, take the time to do a great mole. The mole used on the enchiladas was merely decent. Still, overall it was a very satisfying meal, and a nice touch was the tiny "salad" that had a great citrus zip.
Throw in one Coke. Price? $8.65. Can't beat that. The whole point of the venture, Miguel said, was to do some really good "fast food" for lunch on the go. He explained the logo, which is a play on words. Riendo (rier) is to laugh or smile, and put the "CO" from taco with Riendo, which means to run (corriendo). Hence the logo of the smiling taco at a run. Meaning good fast food. Which it is.
There's also full plates available for a sit down meal, and Miguel is working on a beer and wine license. It's a welcome addition to a street lined with global culinary adventure.
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